Lunch today, courtesy of my good friends at Penguin, was at the newly opened Acorn House just off the Grays Inn Road in the bit of Kings Cross that not so long ago you’d never want to find yourself late at night, but now the Eurostar is arriving is rapidly becoming quite nice indeed. (Wish i’d bought that house now.)
The pitch is “London’s first eco-friendly training restaurant”, meaning that it sources ingredients from sustainable sources, produces healthy food in environmentally conscious ways and has an active social enterprise programme to train locals in the hospitality trades. Eating exceptionally and environmentally well, as it were.
Inside is bright, light and airy. Pale surfaces and green detailing. Table decor is minimal and unfussy. The most striking thing is the huge wall of ingredients than runs the length of the place, with produce and supplies piled up for all to see. Don’t know if that extends to picking up and playing with them per se, which we all did, but hey i’m never short of a joke about rude and amusingly shaped vegetables now am I?
So how was it? Not bad actually, although not perfect. Can’t comment on value as I wasn’t paying. Would I go back. Definately.
The simple seasonal 3 course menu with just 3 options per course made choosing a doddle. A Ravioli of Cavolo Nero (I could eat that stuff for Britain) in a Beurre Noisette, followed by Shoulder of Mutton with Quince, Squash and yet more Cavolo Nero and a tiny Chocolate pud with Ginger ice cream.
The Ravioli was the standout dish of the meal. Big, and generously filled with the chopped cabbage, mixed with ricotta and just a touch of nutmeg. The butter sauce was a perfect accompaniment too, giving a slight bitter edge to match the cabbage. Didn’t last long. Next.
The main course was where things went off beam a bit. Everything was fine except that it was cold when it arrived, which is a shame because the combination of favours certainly worked. The quince had been puréed and served as a sauce, and the squash was oven roasted in big chunks and combined with the cabbage. I really should have sent it back, but it was a large table of 18 or so, and we were on a schedule.
I wasn’t going to have a pud, but ginger ice cream was too good an opportunity to miss. The chocolate fondant came in a pyramid shape and was perfect - light textured, yet rich and silky and indulgent - and the ice cream was a delightfully peppery accompaniment. There could have been slighty MORE ice cream truth be told, but it was only lunch after all.
A little like Konstam just down the road, it’s interesting to see restaurant offering more than just a food twist. I’m a very, very bad eco-citizen who should do more - and if eating food of the quality seen here today means I might still get my wings in heaven, then reserve me a table for two. One to watch and to support.
I’ll leave you with a picture of the Ravioli. Yum-tiddly-umptious!
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